Etxebarri

Asador Etxebarri | The List — A Celebration of Fire, Friendship and Belonging I believe simplicity is the hardest thing in cooking. There is nowhere to hide. The product must be exceptional, the judgment precise, and the hand controlling the fire must know exactly when to act and when to leave something alone. Bittor Arginzoniz proves this every day at Etxebarri. He works with fire and smoke with an almost impossible restraint. Different woods, different temperatures, tools he designed himself, and decades spent understanding what each ingredient needs. Yet the fire is never allowed to become the star. That place always belongs to the product. I first came to Etxebarri ten years ago. Since then, I have returned so many times that I have lost count. In recent years, five or six visits a year has become normal. And still, every time I make my way back to Axpe, I feel the same excitement and the same butterflies in my stomach. Like a man completely in love, about to see his sweetheart again. By now, this is about far more than food. Bittor, Patri, Moha and Paul have become my family. They opened their restaurant to me, but more importantly, they opened their home and their hearts. They have welcomed my family, my friends and the many Hungry Tourists I have brought here, always making us feel that we belong. Sometimes I dream of living nearby and coming once a week. Not for the full tasting menu. Just one or two dishes, a glass of wine, a little fire, and time with people I love. Perhaps in my next perfect life. The List was created from this same belief. Restaurants matter because of the people behind them, the people who love them, and the trust we place in one another when we say: you must go here. I could not dream of a more meaningful place to launch it. We are not simply holding a party at one of the world's great restaurants. We are celebrating The List inside the home of people I love. It is perfect.

Caldo de Bienvenida | Etxebarri's Welcome Broth Before the first proper course, a small glass of warm broth welcomes us to Etxebarri. A simple gesture, but one that captures the spirit of Bittor Arginzoniz's cooking. The restaurant has served beautifully concentrated broths as an opening offering, including preparations based on mushrooms and seasonal vegetables. Their purpose is not to impress through complexity, but to introduce the depth of flavor that careful cooking can reveal. There is something comforting about beginning this way, surrounded by the green mountains of the Atxondo Valley. A few warm sips, and our celebration begins.

Chorizo Artesano | House-Made Chorizo Five beautiful slices of deep ruby-red chorizo, presented without ceremony on a simple ceramic plate. Bittor's distinctive preparation has been associated with exceptional Joselito pork and pimiento choricero, the traditional dried red pepper of Basque cooking. Unlike smoked paprika, this pepper contributes a gentler sweetness, allowing the richness of the pork to shine. What I love is the confidence of the presentation. No garnish, no elaborate composition, nothing unnecessary. A wonderful introduction to Etxebarri's philosophy. Extraordinary gastronomy doesn't always begin with luxury. Sometimes, it begins with a slice of sausage.

Anchoa del Cantábrico sobre Pan Tostado con Tomate | Cantabrian Anchovy with Tomato Toast A magnificent Cantabrian anchovy, opened lengthwise, its silver skin glistening, rests on crisp toasted bread with a delicate layer of tomato. The Cantabrian Sea produces some of Spain's most prized anchovies, traditionally cured in salt to develop remarkable depth while preserving their delicate texture. Here, the anchovy's rich, savory character meets the gentle acidity of tomato and the satisfying crunch of toast. A beautiful expression of northern Spain's culinary traditions, and a reminder that Bittor's genius isn't simply knowing how to use fire. It's also knowing when an extraordinary ingredient needs almost nothing.

Mozzarella Casera de Búfala | Bittor's Homemade Mozzarella Only Bittor would fall in love with mozzarella in Italy and decide to bring the buffalo home. He established his own herd in Axpe, producing fresh mozzarella exclusively for Etxebarri. The cheese is delicate, creamy and gently touched by smoke, a beautiful expression of his determination to control every ingredient from its origin. Here, the immaculate white mozzarella rests on vivid green and red sauces, a wonderfully colorful contrast to its pure dairy richness. What I love is the story behind it. An Italian inspiration, Basque countryside, Bittor's buffalo and a little fire. Magnificent simplicity.

Berberechos a la Brasa | Grilled Cockles These magnificent cockles are another reminder that Bittor's mastery of fire extends to the most delicate creatures of the sea. Berberechos are prized along Spain's Atlantic coast for their sweet, saline flesh and the precious juices trapped inside their beautifully ribbed shells. At Etxebarri, they are opened with extraordinary precision over the embers, preserving their tenderness and natural marine richness. A little green herb dressing brings freshness without distracting from the shellfish. What fascinates me is how much flavor can be concentrated into something so small. Pure, beautiful, delicious simplicity.

Bonito del Norte | Albacore Tuna September is a wonderful time for Bonito del Norte, the prized albacore tuna that arrives in the Bay of Biscay during its summer migration. Its delicate flesh and natural richness make it one of the great seasonal treasures of Basque cooking. Here, Bittor presents a beautiful piece of bonito with a thin cucumber slice, a little garnish and a vivid red sauce. The composition is wonderfully restrained, allowing the fish to remain the protagonist. I love how this dish captures the character of the Cantabrian summer: extraordinary seafood, freshness, and the confidence to do very little.

Gambas Rojas de Palamós a la Brasa | Grilled Palamós Red Prawns I don't call many things the best in the world. But these prawns, without the slightest doubt, belong in that category. Gambas de Palamós, Aristeus antennatus, come from the deep Mediterranean waters off Catalonia's Costa Brava. Their delicate, sweet flesh is magnificent, but the real treasure lies in the head, where intensely flavored juices concentrate the essence of the sea. Bittor grills them with extraordinary precision, preserving their sweetness while introducing the faintest suggestion of smoke. No sauce. No garnish. Nothing unnecessary. One of the best bites available to humankind. Period.

Chipirón a la Brasa con Cebolla Caramelizada y Su Tinta | Grilled Baby Squid with Caramelized Onions To die for. Absolutely. One of Bittor's great signature dishes begins with a tiny baby squid, its delicate reddish-purple skin glistening beside a pool of intensely black ink. Inside, slowly caramelized onions bring concentrated sweetness to the extraordinarily tender flesh. The inspiration comes from chipirones en su tinta, a beloved Basque preparation of squid, onions and ink. Bittor reimagines those familiar flavors through fire, creating a beautiful balance of sweetness, marine intensity and gentle smoke. A tiny squid, an onion, its own ink and a lifetime of understanding heat. One of Etxebarri's masterpieces.

Kokotxas de Merluza a la Brasa | Grilled Hake Kokotxas Kokotxas are the precious, collagen-rich pieces of flesh beneath a hake's lower jaw, prized in Basque cooking for their delicate, almost melting, gelatinous texture. Traditionally prepared al pil-pil or in green sauce, they are particularly challenging to grill without losing their extraordinary softness. Bittor's golden kokotxas arrive on dark greens, accompanied by a vivid green sauce and a small white emulsion. The contrast between their silky texture, the freshness of the greens and the subtle influence of fire is beautiful. A once-humble part of a fish, transformed into one of Basque gastronomy's great delicacies.

Besugo a la Brasa con Pil-Pil | Grilled Red Sea Bream with Pil-Pil Sauce One of the great classics of Basque grilling, elevated by Bittor Arginzoniz's extraordinary understanding of fire. The magnificent red sea bream arrives whole, opened and generously covered with a silky, golden pil-pil sauce, enriched by the fish's natural gelatin and olive oil, with delicate slices of garlic. Besugo is prized for its succulent white flesh and rich flavor, particularly around the head and bones. What I love is how the gentle smoke, beautiful fish and luscious sauce come together. A traditional Basque masterpiece, executed with remarkable precision. Absolutely magnificent.

Txuleta de Vaca a la Brasa | Grilled Bone-In Beef Chop And then, the grand finale. The txuleta, one of the great icons of Basque gastronomy. Bittor has spent decades sourcing exceptional mature cattle, particularly Galician cows, and studying the qualities that make great beef. His philosophy is refreshingly simple: the meat should taste of beef. Cooked over carefully controlled holm-oak embers, this magnificent chop develops a deeply caramelized crust while remaining intensely red and juicy inside. Coarse salt, beautiful fat, extraordinary flavor. For me, this is what great beef should be. Meat and fire. The perfect txuleta. The perfect finale.

Helado de Leche Ahumada con Jugo de Remolacha | Smoked-Milk Ice Cream with Beetroot Juice At Etxebarri, even ice cream has a relationship with fire. Bittor's celebrated dessert begins with slowly reduced milk, concentrating its natural sweetness while developing delicate toasted and smoky notes. The beautifully smooth ice cream rests in a pool of deep crimson beetroot juice, whose earthy sweetness provides a fascinating contrast to the rich dairy flavors. Milk and beetroot. Two wonderfully simple ingredients, transformed through an extraordinary understanding of heat. Nine little bowls, nine happy people. A lovely reminder that Bittor's imagination extends far beyond the grill. Only at Etxebarri could milk and beetroot become something so memorable.

Soufflé de Chocolate Blanco | White Chocolate Soufflé Nine little copper pans arrive at the table, each holding a beautifully risen soufflé, its golden surface gently browned and still warm. White chocolate brings a delicate sweetness and creamy richness, while the soufflé's airy texture keeps the dessert wonderfully light. The magic lies in the timing. Each soufflé must rise perfectly and reach the table before its fragile structure begins to collapse. No elaborate decoration, no unnecessary accompaniments. Just the pleasure of breaking through that delicate golden surface. Nine little pans. Nine happy people. A wonderfully comforting ending to an extraordinary meal.

Flan de Queso | El Mejor Flan del Mundo The best flan in the world. And I don't say that lightly. Etxebarri's legendary cheese flan transforms one of Spain's most beloved desserts into something unforgettable. Its pale golden custard is impossibly smooth, rich without becoming heavy, with a delicate sweetness balanced by the subtle savory character of cheese. Presented simply, with a few touches of caramel, there is nowhere for imperfect technique to hide. This is everything I love about great gastronomy: taking something familiar, understanding it completely and making it extraordinarily delicious. El mejor flan del mundo. What a beautiful way to finish.

Mochi | A Little Japanese-Inspired Finale And one last little surprise. After a magnificent succession of desserts, Etxebarri sends us away with delicate pieces of mochi, the traditional Japanese confection made from glutinous rice dough. Their soft, slightly chewy exterior surrounds a rich-looking filling, offering a lovely contrast of textures in just one or two bites. It's a playful departure from the Basque traditions that define so much of Bittor's cooking, and a charming reminder of his curiosity about Japanese gastronomy. A small, sweet gesture to conclude an unforgettable celebration. Sometimes the loveliest farewell comes in the smallest package.

A Final Thought There are great restaurants, and then there are places that become part of your life. For me, Etxebarri is one of those places. Over the years, Bittor, Patri, Moha and Paul have given me far more than extraordinary meals. They have given me friendship, trust, affection and the wonderful feeling of returning home. And today, being able to bring so many people I care about together in this very special place to celebrate the birth of The List means more to me than I can properly express. Looking at our group photograph, I don't simply see guests at a restaurant. I see friends, chefs, restaurateurs, people who have shared adventures, and others whose paths have only recently crossed mine. All brought together by something as wonderfully simple as our love of food and the people behind it. That, in many ways, is exactly why The List exists. Not to tell people where they must eat, but to share the places and people we genuinely love, and to celebrate the trust that makes those recommendations meaningful. I cannot imagine a better beginning. Thank you, Bittor, Patri, Moha and Paul, for welcoming us into your home. And thank you to everyone who came to Axpe to celebrate this moment with us. I will remember this day for a very long time. With love and gratitude, Dudi

What Some of Us Drank, Anyway

The impressive lineup at Borja Matoses' table simply had to be investigated! :) While we were celebrating the launch of The List at Etxebarri, another extraordinary gastronomic adventure was unfolding in the wine glasses. Burgundy, Barolo, Bordeaux, the Rhône, Germany, Rioja, Galicia, Jerez and even a legendary Californian Cabernet Sauvignon. Some bottles were old friends, others genuine rarities, and a few were the kind of wines that make serious collectors weak at the knees. What a magnificent collection to bring together around one table. And since I couldn't possibly let such a lineup pass without a closer look, here is what I discovered.

Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill 1978 | Napa Valley, California

A remarkable piece of California wine history. Founded by Al Brounstein, Diamond Creek pioneered single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa Valley. Volcanic Hill, planted on distinctive volcanic soils, produces wines of exceptional structure and longevity. The legendary 1978 vintage represents a fascinating chapter in California's early fine-wine revolution.

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage | Northern Rhône, France

One of the world's great expressions of Syrah, from a family whose winemaking history stretches back to 1481. Jean-Louis Chave blends parcels across Hermitage's celebrated slopes, creating wines of remarkable complexity, depth and longevity. A benchmark of the Northern Rhône and one of France's most revered estates.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2023 | Burgundy, France

From one of Burgundy's most celebrated villages, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru represents Pinot Noir at its most structured and expressive. The finest examples combine dark cherry, spice, earthy complexity and beautifully integrated tannins. The 2023 vintage produced generous, aromatic reds, with freshness and balance distinguishing the most successful wines.

Lorenzo Accomasso Barolo Annunziata Riserva 2018 | Piedmont, Italy

A rare Barolo from one of Piedmont's most traditional producers. Lorenzo Accomasso's Nebbiolo comes from the celebrated Annunziata vineyards of La Morra. Extended maturation in large wooden casks creates wines of remarkable depth, structure and longevity. A fascinating expression of old-school Barolo, made without compromise.

Château de Beaucastel Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 2021 | Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France

One of the Rhône Valley's greatest white wines, produced from exceptionally old Roussanne vines by the Perrin family. Made in very limited quantities, it combines extraordinary richness with freshness and longevity. Honey, apricot, peach and remarkable texture define this magnificent expression of one of the Rhône's most distinctive white varieties.

Domaine Coche-Dury Bourgogne Chardonnay 2017 | Burgundy, France

Even the regional Bourgogne Chardonnay from Coche-Dury is an object of fascination among wine lovers. This legendary Meursault domaine is celebrated for its extraordinary precision, concentration and distinctive reductive character. The excellent 2017 vintage brought freshness and balance to Burgundy's whites. A remarkable bottle from one of Chardonnay's greatest producers.

Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru 2020 | Burgundy, France

Olivier Lamy has transformed his family's Saint-Aubin estate into one of Burgundy's most admired sources of Chardonnay. His wines are celebrated for their tension, precision and mineral expression. The ripe 2020 vintage combines concentration with freshness, demonstrating why Saint-Aubin now commands such respect among serious Burgundy enthusiasts.

Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé 2013 | Rhône Valley, France

One of France's most legendary and elusive wines. Château Rayas produces an extraordinary expression of Grenache from its distinctive sandy vineyards. Unlike the powerful style often associated with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rayas is celebrated for its perfume, delicacy and remarkable elegance. A genuinely special bottle from an iconic estate.

Keller Oberer Hubacker 2023 | Rheinhessen, Germany

Klaus Peter Keller is among Germany's most celebrated Riesling producers. Oberer Hubacker comes from the limestone-rich vineyards around Dalsheim, producing wines of remarkable precision, mineral tension and aging potential. The 2023 vintage adds youthful energy to this distinguished site. A wonderful example of Germany's finest dry Riesling.

Remelluri Reserva 2005 | Rioja, Spain

One of Rioja's historic estates, beautifully restored by the Rodríguez family. Remelluri emphasizes vineyard character, traditional grape varieties and the distinctive terroir of Rioja Alavesa. The excellent 2005 vintage produced structured, ageworthy reds, combining ripe fruit, savory complexity and elegance. A lovely example of mature, traditional Spanish wine.

Fulcro Nas Dunas Albariño 2023 | Rías Baixas, Galicia

A distinctive Atlantic Albariño from Manuel Moldes, one of the exciting voices of contemporary Galician winemaking. Nas Dunas reflects the maritime influence and sandy soils associated with its coastal origins. Freshness, salinity and texture define its appeal, making it a natural companion to the extraordinary seafood served at Etxebarri.

Antonio de la Riva San Cayetano Macharnudo | Jerez, Spain

A fascinating expression of the historic vineyards of Jerez. The revived De la Riva project celebrates the region's great vineyard sites and traditional winemaking heritage. San Cayetano comes from the celebrated Macharnudo area, renowned for its distinctive albariza soils. A remarkable connection to the extraordinary history of Andalusian wine.

Les Treilles | France

A bottle whose label deserves closer identification. The name Les Treilles appears in several French wine regions, and its exact producer, appellation and vintage are not yet securely established from the photograph. Rather than invent a story, we preserve its place in this extraordinary collection while awaiting confirmation.

Les Jauges 2021 | France

Another intriguing bottle in Borja's collection. The label clearly identifies Les Jauges 2021, although the exact producer and appellation remain to be confirmed. Its presence among such distinguished wines certainly invites curiosity. A reminder that some of the most interesting discoveries are not always the most recognizable labels.

Bourgogne Chardonnay 2020 | Burgundy, France

A regional Burgundy Chardonnay from the excellent 2020 vintage, which combined ripe fruit and concentration with impressive freshness in the best examples. Bourgogne Chardonnay can offer a wonderful introduction to the character of its producer, expressing both the generosity of the grape and the precision of Burgundian winemaking.

The Remaining Burgundy Bottle | Identification Pending

One additional bottle in the group photograph still requires definitive identification. Its precise producer and cuvée should be established before publication rather than attaching an unsupported name or vintage.

A remarkable collection of wines, and another reminder that extraordinary gastronomy is never only about what arrives on the plate. Sometimes the stories waiting inside the bottles are just as fascinating. Thank you, Borja, for giving us another wonderful subject to investigate! Dudi