La Huertona

La Huertona | The Extraordinary Treasures of the Cantabrian Sea There are restaurants where the first thing you see tells you everything about what awaits. La Huertona is one of them. Just look at this magnificent display. Beautiful wild fish, brilliant red alfonsinos, turbot, oysters, clams, percebes and extraordinary scarlet prawns, all celebrating the remarkable richness of the Cantabrian Sea. For decades, José Manuel Viejo and Rosa Ruisánchez have devoted themselves to finding exceptional ingredients and treating them with absolute respect. Rosa’s traditional cooking and José’s mastery of the oak-fired grill make this one of Asturias’s most special dining destinations. Exactly the kind of restaurant I love.

Salmorejo | Andalusian Tomato Cream with Jamón and Egg A beautiful little taste of Andalusia to begin our lunch at La Huertona. Salmorejo is one of southern Spain’s most beloved dishes, originating in Córdoba, where ripe tomatoes and bread are blended into a wonderfully thick, silky cream, traditionally enriched with olive oil. Here, it arrives in a small white bowl, its deep red color contrasting beautifully with little pieces of jamón and hard-boiled egg. The combination is irresistible. The natural sweetness and acidity of tomatoes, the richness of the bread, the saltiness of the ham and the gentle softness of the egg. Simple, traditional and absolutely delicious.

Crema de Patata y Puerro | Silky Potato and Leek Soup A wonderfully delicate little beginning at La Huertona, celebrating two of the humblest ingredients in the kitchen. Potato and leek are transformed into a beautifully smooth, pale green cream, with the gentle sweetness of the leek balanced by the comforting richness of the potato. A small golden, crispy garnish adds a lovely contrast to the silky texture. There is something deeply satisfying about a dish this simple. No elaborate ingredients, no unnecessary complications, just two familiar vegetables treated with care. A lovely reminder that great cooking doesn’t always require luxury. Sometimes, all it takes is a potato and a leek.

Crema de Queso y Anchoas | Fresh and Blue Cheese Cream with Anchovies A beautiful little bite that brings together two of northern Spain’s great culinary treasures, exceptional cheeses and the extraordinary anchovies of the Cantabrian Sea. At La Huertona, fresh cheese and blue cheese are blended with anchovies into a rich, savory cream, served between delicate, crisp wafers. The combination is wonderful. The gentle freshness of the soft cheese balances the pungent character of the blue, while the anchovies bring their unmistakable salty depth. Creamy, crunchy, tangy and intensely savory, all in one elegant little sandwich. A lovely reminder of how much pleasure can come from just three carefully chosen ingredients.

Puerro a la Brasa con Caviar | Grilled Leek with Caviar A beautiful example of how two completely different worlds can come together in one extraordinary bite. At La Huertona, a tender piece of leek is grilled over the embers until its natural sweetness emerges, with a delicate touch of caramelization from the fire. Then comes the luxury. A magnificent, generous spoonful of glistening caviar, its delicate salinity and rich, buttery character contrasting beautifully with the sweetness of the leek. The combination is wonderfully simple. Vegetable, fire and caviar. For me, this is exactly the kind of cooking that makes a restaurant special. A humble ingredient elevated without losing its identity.

Coquinas de Cambados a la Brasa | Grilled Galician Wedge Clams A beautiful little bowl of coquinas from Cambados, the Galician fishing town famous for its extraordinary shellfish. These delicate wedge clams are among the Atlantic’s sweetest little treasures, with slender shells that open to reveal tender flesh and lovely shades of violet inside. At La Huertona, José Manuel Viejo prepares them over the embers, allowing the gentle heat of the grill to open their shells while preserving their precious natural juices. The result is wonderfully simple. Delicate sweetness, a hint of smoke and that unmistakable taste of the sea. Exactly the kind of seafood cooking I love. Exceptional ingredients, fire and absolutely nothing unnecessary.

Almeja Fina de Mariscos Laureano a la Brasa | Grilled Galician Clams from Cambados Another extraordinary shellfish treasure from Cambados, supplied by Mariscos Laureano, one of the names behind the exceptional seafood of Galicia’s Rías Baixas. The almeja fina is among Spain’s most prized clams, celebrated for its delicate sweetness, firm yet tender flesh and beautifully clean taste of the Atlantic. At La Huertona, José Manuel Viejo prepares these magnificent clams over the embers, allowing their shells to open gently while preserving the precious juices inside. Served with absolutely nothing to distract from their natural character, they offer a wonderful combination of sweetness, salinity and the subtle influence of fire. For me, this is seafood cooking at its finest. An exceptional product, treated with complete respect.

Berberecho Gordo de Mariscos Laureano a la Brasa | Grilled Galician Cockles A magnificent little bowl of exceptionally large Galician cockles, supplied by Mariscos Laureano and prepared over the embers at La Huertona. Just look at those beautifully ridged shells, opened to reveal generous, plump flesh glistening with its own precious juices. The berberecho gordo is particularly prized for its size, satisfying texture and concentrated marine flavor, combining delicate sweetness with the unmistakable salinity of Galicia’s Atlantic waters. Grilling brings a subtle smoky dimension without overwhelming the natural character of the shellfish. For me, this is exactly what makes José Manuel Viejo’s cooking so special. Beautiful ingredients, the gentle influence of fire and the confidence to leave everything else alone.

Carabinero de Isla Cristina a la Brasa de Encina | Holm Oak-Grilled Scarlet Prawn One of the great treasures of Spanish seafood, and a magnificent example of José Manuel Viejo’s mastery of the grill. This extraordinary carabinero comes from Isla Cristina, on the Atlantic coast of Huelva, where these deep-water scarlet prawns are prized for their intensely sweet flesh and exceptionally flavorful heads. At La Huertona, it is grilled over glowing holm oak embers, its brilliant red shell protecting the delicate meat while the fire adds a subtle smoky character. The real treasure is the head, filled with rich, concentrated juices that are simply too precious to waste. For me, few crustaceans in the world can rival a magnificent carabinero, especially when cooked this beautifully.

Rey de Costa a la Brasa de Encina | Holm Oak-Grilled Alfonsino A magnificent piece of rey de costa, one of the beautiful deep-water fish of the Atlantic, grilled over glowing holm oak embers at La Huertona. Its skin is beautifully caramelized, with little charred edges from the fire, while the thick, pearly white flesh beneath remains wonderfully succulent, separating into delicate, juicy flakes. The rey, also known as alfonsino, is prized for its firm texture, rich flavor and natural sweetness, qualities that make it particularly suited to grilling. For me, this is where José Manuel Viejo’s cooking truly shines. Exceptional fish, perfectly controlled fire and the confidence to let the ingredient speak for itself. A beautiful expression of the Cantabrian coast.

Chuleta de Luismi Selección Especial a la Brasa | Holm Oak-Grilled Mature Cow Beef After an extraordinary parade of seafood, La Huertona reminds us that the grill is just as magnificent when it comes to beef. A special selection of mature cow from Luismi, one of Spain’s most respected suppliers of exceptional beef, carefully grilled over glowing embers. The meat arrives beautifully sliced, with a deeply caramelized crust surrounding a rich, rosy interior. The maturity of the animal brings remarkable depth of flavor, while the fire adds its unmistakable character. Served with gently dressed onions, it needs very little else. For me, this is the pleasure of great Spanish beef. An exceptional animal, a masterful grill and the confidence to keep everything wonderfully simple.

Fabada Asturiana | Traditional Asturian White Bean Stew A little bowl of pure Asturian comfort, served alongside our magnificent grilled beef at La Huertona. At the heart of fabada are the famous fabes de la Granja, Asturias’s prized large white beans, celebrated for their remarkably thin skins and creamy, almost buttery interiors. Traditionally, they are slowly simmered with compango, the combination of chorizo, morcilla and cured pork that gives the broth its extraordinary depth and richness. Here, the beautiful, plump beans arrive in a rich, golden-red broth, allowing us to appreciate their wonderful texture. After so much extraordinary seafood and fire, this is a lovely reminder of the deeply comforting traditions of Asturian home cooking.

Croqueta de Manzana con Foie Gras y Reducción de Pedro Ximénez | Apple Croquette with Fresh Duck Foie Gras One of the five greatest bites available to humankind. And I am only half joking! At La Huertona, a beautifully golden, crisp apple croquette becomes the foundation for a generous piece of fresh duck foie gras, finished with a luscious reduction of Pedro Ximénez, Spain’s wonderfully rich, sweet sherry. The combination is simply outrageous. The delicate sweetness of apple, the crunch of the croquette, the melting richness of foie gras and the deep, raisiny sweetness of the wine reduction. Everything comes together in one magnificent, unforgettable mouthful. I’ve eaten some extraordinary things in my life, but this little creation belongs in a category of its own. Absolutely mind-blowing.

Helado de Corte | Traditional Spanish Custard Ice Cream Sandwich A wonderfully nostalgic little dessert at La Huertona, bringing back one of the great pleasures of traditional Spanish ice cream. Helado de corte is an old-fashioned favorite, a generous slice of ice cream served between two crisp wafers, originally sold in ice cream parlors and cut to order. Here, the ice cream has the rich, comforting flavor of crema pastelera, Spanish pastry cream, with a beautifully smooth, almost custard-like texture. The contrast is delightful. Cold, creamy, gently sweet ice cream between two thin, crunchy biscuits. Nothing complicated, nothing theatrical. Just a delicious reminder that some childhood pleasures never lose their magic.

Arroz con Leche Requemado | Traditional Asturian Rice Pudding with Caramelized Sugar There are few desserts more deeply rooted in Asturian culinary tradition than arroz con leche, and at La Huertona, it is a beautiful expression of this beloved classic. Rice is slowly cooked in milk until the grains become wonderfully tender, surrounded by a rich, creamy custard. Then comes the magic of the requemado, the traditional caramelization of sugar on the surface, adding a delicate bittersweet contrast to the comforting sweetness beneath. The result is wonderfully indulgent. Silky cream, tender rice and little touches of toasted caramel. For me, this is exactly how a great Asturian meal should end. Something familiar, deeply comforting and made with love.

Opus Paratge Qualificat Vallcirera 2021 Brut Nature | Art Laietà d’Alta Alella, Cava

A beautiful vintage Cava from Alta Alella, grown in the Vallcirera vineyard overlooking the Mediterranean, just north of Barcelona. Brut Nature, with no added sugar, it expresses the freshness and precision of traditional-method sparkling wine, with delicate citrus, fine bubbles and subtle toasted notes. A lovely beginning to our lunch at La Huertona.

Alma D Mar Albariño 2024 | Rías Baixas, Galicia

A lovely Albariño from Galicia’s Atlantic-influenced Rías Baixas region, whose name, Alma D Mar, means Soul of the Sea. Fresh, vibrant and beautifully suited to seafood, with the citrus character, delicate fruit and saline freshness that make Albariño such a natural companion to the Cantabrian coast. A wonderful beginning at La Huertona.

As Sortes 2024 | Rafael Palacios, Val do Bibei, Valdeorras

A magnificent Godello from Rafael Palacios, one of the great champions of this remarkable Galician grape. Grown on steep, granite-rich slopes in Val do Bibei, As Sortes combines beautiful mineral tension, ripe orchard fruit, citrus freshness and remarkable depth. An exceptional white wine, perfectly suited to La Huertona’s extraordinary seafood.

Vega Sicilia Único 2014 | Ribera del Duero

One of Spain’s most legendary wines, produced by the historic Vega Sicilia estate in Valbuena de Duero. The 2014 Único combines extraordinary depth, elegance and longevity, with layers of dark fruit, cedar, tobacco and beautifully integrated oak. A magnificent bottle, worthy of a truly special lunch at La Huertona.