Saito
Mon, Oct 5, 2026
Hiroshi Ishikawa — “Little Brother”
There are chefs who become friends, and then there are friends who become family. Hiroshi is my “little brother.” I’ve watched him grow over the years into an extraordinary sushi chef, but what makes me happiest is that he remains exactly the same Hiroshi: warm, generous, funny and always smiling. Every time I sit in front of him, there is affection, trust and history between us. Today, once again, I get to share his food with people I care about.
What we ate
Kegani — Hairy Crab
Meticulously picked hairy crab, sweet and delicate, with every strand of meat carrying the deep flavor of the sea. Pure, painstaking simplicity.
Smoked Katsuo — Bonito
Beautifully smoked katsuo, meaty and rich yet remarkably clean. The gentle smoke deepens the flavor, while ginger and negi bring freshness and lift.
Awabi in Thick Dashi with Liver Sauce
Tender awabi in a rich, concentrated dashi, served with its deep green liver sauce. Intense umami and remarkable depth, while still preserving the delicate sweetness of the abalone.
Hohoniku — Tuna Cheek
Grilled tuna cheek, wonderfully juicy and deeply savory, with a richness that feels almost like wagyu. Served simply with fresh wasabi to cut through the fat.
Tako — Octopus
Tender tako with a satisfying bite and deep natural sweetness. Simply served with fresh wasabi, letting the texture and flavor of the octopus speak for themselves.
Nodoguro — Blackthroat Seaperch
Rich, fatty nodoguro, gently grilled to release its beautiful oils while keeping the flesh wonderfully moist. Deeply savory and luxurious, balanced by the accompaniments.
Karei — Flounder
Delicate karei with a clean sweetness and beautifully supple texture. A restrained opening to the nigiri sequence, where the balance between fish and shari does all the talking.
Sumi Ika — Cuttlefish
Pristine sumi ika, beautifully translucent with a gentle sweetness and silky, almost creamy texture. Precise knife work gives it just the right tenderness and bite.
Kohada — Gizzard Shad
Beautifully cured kohada, layered with precision over the shari. Bright acidity, gentle salinity and the richness of the silver-skinned fish come together in one of Edomae sushi’s defining pieces.
Akami Zuke — Marinated Lean Tuna
Deep red akami, lightly marinated to intensify its savory character while preserving the clean taste of the tuna. Silky, focused and beautifully balanced with the shari.
Chutoro — Medium Fatty Tuna
Silky chutoro with beautiful marbling — the sweet spot between the depth of akami and the richness of otoro. Lush and melting, but still wonderfully balanced.
Iwashi — Sardine
Luscious iwashi, rich with natural oils and deep umami. Delicate knife work softens the texture beautifully, turning this humble silver fish into something remarkably elegant.
Otoro — Fatty Tuna
Magnificent otoro, deeply marbled and almost impossibly tender. Rich and luxurious, melting into the warm shari while still retaining the pure flavor of the tuna.
Saba — Mackerel
Rich, beautifully cured saba wrapped with shari, shiso and nori. Deeply savory and oily, with the herbs and crisp seaweed bringing freshness and balance.
Kuruma Ebi — Japanese Tiger Prawn
Sweet, succulent kuruma ebi with a beautifully firm yet tender bite. Its natural sweetness intensifies against the warm shari — classic, precise and deeply satisfying.
Uni — Sea Urchin
Generous uni overflowing from crisp nori, intensely creamy and sweet with a deep taste of the sea. Luxurious, unapologetic, and exactly the kind of bite you never want to end.
Anago — Sea Eel
Feather-soft anago, gently simmered until almost weightless and finished with sweet-savory tsume. Warm, delicate and melting into the shari — one of the great Edomae finales.
Negitoro — My Favorite Flavor of Ice Cream 😁
Rich, silky chopped tuna overflowing from crisp nori — creamy, fatty and completely irresistible. My favorite flavor of “ice cream,” and one of those bites I could happily eat forever.
Saito’s Tamago
Immaculately smooth and custardy, with a gentle sweetness and remarkable richness. A deceptively simple final bite — and a beautiful signature ending to the sushi.
What we drank
Eshikoto — Gyōun Ryūsui “Blowing in the Wind”
Elegant and fluid, with a clean, graceful character that lives up beautifully to its poetic name. Fresh and refined on the palate, with gentle fruit, subtle umami and a crisp finish — a sake that moves effortlessly alongside sushi rather than competing with it.
Mimurosugi — Mimuro Sugi
A beautifully refined sake from Nara, combining purity and elegance with a gentle depth of umami. Silky and precise, with freshness that keeps it wonderfully alive alongside sushi — sophisticated without ever overpowering the food.
Sharaku — Junmai Daiginjo Gokujo Nitori
A beautifully polished expression of Sharaku, elegant and aromatic yet never excessive. Silky on the palate, with refined fruit, gentle sweetness and a clean, precise finish. There’s enough depth and structure to stand beside richer pieces of sushi while remaining wonderfully graceful and composed.