El Capricho
Sun, Oct 11, 2026
La Cúpula de El Capricho | José Gordón and His Extraordinary World of Oxen
There are few people in the world who understand mature oxen quite like José Gordón. At El Capricho, in the tiny village of Jiménez de Jamuz, he has dedicated his life to raising exceptional animals, understanding their character and transforming their meat through patient aging and fire.
Today, we enter his extraordinary La Cúpula, an intimate underground dining experience devoted entirely to the ox.
But first, José himself takes us to meet his magnificent animals and visit the ancient caves where he cures what I genuinely believe is the finest cecina in the world, sometimes for as long as four years.
More than a meal, this is a journey into one man's lifelong passion.
What we ate
Bodega de Cecinas | The Curing Cellars
Degustación de Cecinas | Three Cuts, Three Stages of Curing
Our journey into José Gordón’s extraordinary world begins underground, in the ancient caves where time, patience and nature work their magic.
Before lunch, we taste three different cuts of cured ox: presa, cured for eight months; picaña, cured for one year; and rabillo, cured for eighteen months.
Each reveals a different balance of texture, fat and concentrated beef flavor, showing how the cut itself and the length of curing shape the final result.
For me, José makes the finest cecina in the world. Tasting it here, inside the very caves where his extraordinary work takes place, makes the experience even more special.
Búnker | The First Surprise
Bombón de Hígado de Buey con Pasas y Chocolate de Astorga | Ox Liver Bonbons with Raisins and Astorga Chocolate
Our journey continues into the Búnker, where José Gordón reveals a wonderfully playful side of his extraordinary cooking.
Little chocolate bonbons, arranged among twigs and hay, conceal the unexpected richness of ox liver, combined with raisins and chocolate from nearby Astorga, a town with a centuries-old chocolate-making tradition.
The combination is fascinating. The earthy intensity of liver meets the sweetness of raisins and the deep, bittersweet character of chocolate, transforming a humble organ into an elegant little bite.
A beautiful expression of José’s philosophy: respecting every part of the animal, while never losing the pleasure of surprising his guests.
Cocina | The Kitchen
Pata de Buey a Baja Temperatura y Frita en Panko & Empanadilla de Mollejas Guisadas | Crispy Ox Foot and Braised Sweetbread Empanadillas
Our next stop is the kitchen, where two humble cuts of the ox become irresistible little bites.
On the left, ox foot slowly cooked at low temperature until its collagen transforms into rich, silky gelatin, then coated in panko and fried until beautifully golden and crisp.
On the right, delicate triangular empanadillas filled with braised sweetbreads, their thin pastry fried to a wonderful crunch.
Two completely different textures, both celebrating parts of the animal that are too often overlooked.
This is José Gordón's philosophy in action. Extraordinary cooking isn't only about magnificent steaks. It's about finding something delicious in every part of the ox.
Cocina Esencial | The Essential Kitchen
Caldo de Huesos de Cuello y Rodilla de Buey | 48-Hour Ox Bone Broth
Our journey continues into the Cocina Esencial, where José Gordón offers one of the simplest and most profound expressions of his philosophy.
A deeply comforting broth, made from the neck and knee bones of mature oxen, slowly cooked for an extraordinary 48 hours.
That long, gentle cooking extracts collagen, gelatin and concentrated savory flavor from the bones and connective tissues, creating a broth with remarkable body and depth.
Served steaming hot in little traditional clay cups, it is a beautiful reminder that some of the most extraordinary flavors come from patience rather than complexity.
Forty-eight hours of cooking, distilled into a few precious sips.
Tuétano a la Brasa | Ox Bone Marrow Grilled over Embers
A magnificent ox bone, split lengthwise and placed directly over glowing embers, its precious marrow slowly melting under the intense heat.
For José Gordón, bone marrow is one of the animal’s greatest treasures, rich, silky and deeply savory, with an almost buttery texture.
Once grilled, it is seasoned with black butter and salt, then served on an endive leaf with trout roe and house-made kimchi.
An extraordinary combination of richness, bitterness, salinity and fermented acidity.
And watching that enormous bone cook over the fire makes the experience even more special. This is José’s world, where absolutely nothing precious is wasted.
Flor de Calabacín Rellena de Morcilla con Piñones Tostados | Zucchini Flower Stuffed with Blood Sausage and Toasted Pine Nuts
A beautiful little bite from José Gordón’s Cocina Esencial, bringing together the delicacy of a zucchini blossom and the deep, savory richness of traditional Spanish morcilla.
The flower is stuffed with blood sausage, gently cooked until tender, and finished with toasted pine nuts that add a lovely crunch and nutty sweetness.
The contrast is wonderful. Delicate vegetable, rich and earthy morcilla, and the warm aroma of toasted pine nuts.
Another expression of José’s philosophy, transforming humble, deeply traditional ingredients into something elegant without losing their rustic soul.
Melón a la Parrilla y Sandía Marinada en Teriyaki | Grilled Melon, Pickled Cucumber and Teriyaki Watermelon
A wonderfully refreshing and unexpected interlude in José Gordón’s Cocina Esencial.
Two familiar summer fruits transformed through fire, savory flavors and a little imagination.
The melon is gently grilled, bringing out its natural sweetness and adding a subtle caramelized character, then paired with pickled cucumber for a bright, acidic contrast.
Alongside it, watermelon marinated in teriyaki, its juicy sweetness meeting the savory depth of the Japanese-inspired sauce, finished with fresh basil.
Sweet, salty, tangy and aromatic, all in a couple of beautiful little bites.
A playful palate cleanser before we return to the magnificent world of mature oxen.
Lomo Bajo de Barrosa | 10-Year-Old Barrosa Ox, Aged 140 Days
Our first encounter with José Gordón’s magnificent mature beef, and what an introduction.
Lomo bajo from a ten-year-old Barrosa ox, a traditional Portuguese breed, matured for an extraordinary 140 days before meeting the fire.
The meat arrives beautifully seared, with a dark, caramelized crust surrounding an intensely pink, juicy center. The extended maturation develops its deep, complex beef flavor and remarkable tenderness.
Served simply on wooden boards with coarse salt and little pieces of fat, it needs absolutely nothing else.
This is what José has spent his life perfecting. Not just great beef, but the extraordinary character that comes from age, time and patience.
La Cúpula | The Main Experience
Mundo de Crudos | Four Raw Cuts of Mature Ox
We finally enter La Cúpula, where José Gordón begins by showing us the extraordinary character of mature ox beef in its purest form.
Four different cuts, morcillo (shank), vacío (flank), cadera (rump) and picaña (rump cap), sliced beautifully thin and presented completely raw.
Each offers a different expression of the animal, from the deeper, more structured character of the working muscles to the delicate marbling and luscious fat of the picaña.
Accompanied by pickled vegetables, this is an invitation to discover the subtle differences in texture, richness and flavor before fire transforms the meat.
A remarkable lesson in understanding the whole animal.
Degustación de Steak Tartar | Three Expressions of Mature Ox
Three extraordinary little bites, each revealing a completely different personality of José Gordón’s magnificent mature oxen.
On the left, the traditional steak tartare made from cadera (rump), allowing the deep, pure flavor of the beef to take center stage.
In the middle, llana (flat iron) combined with a delicate tartare of white shrimp, bringing together the richness of mature beef and the sweet, subtle character of the sea.
And on the right, espaldilla (shoulder) crowned with luxurious Osetra caviar, its delicate salinity adding another dimension to the beef.
Three cuts, three textures, three completely different experiences.
A fascinating demonstration of how much character lies within a single animal.
Nuestras Cecinas | Three Extraordinary Ox Cecinas, Cured for Up to Four Years
For me, this is one of the most extraordinary moments of the entire experience. José Gordón's legendary cecina, presented in three expressions of breed, age and patience.
On the left, babilla from an eight-year-old Rubio Limousin ox, cured for three years. In the center, tapa from a nine-year-old Barroso ox, cured for three and a half years. And on the right, contra from a ten-year-old Minhota ox, cured for an astonishing four years.
Each slice reveals extraordinary marbling, silky fat and deeply concentrated flavor, with subtle differences in texture and character.
I've tasted cecina all over Spain, and I genuinely believe José makes the finest in the world. Four years of patience, distilled into a single, unforgettable slice.
Puerro de Nuestro Huerto con Salsa Romesco y Avellanas | Garden Leek with Romesco Sauce and Hazelnuts
A beautiful moment of simplicity in the middle of José Gordón’s extraordinary celebration of mature oxen.
A tender leek from El Capricho’s own garden, gently cooked until its natural sweetness emerges, served with romesco sauce and toasted hazelnuts.
The leek is silky and delicate, its subtle vegetal sweetness meeting the rich, nutty character of the traditional Catalan-inspired sauce. The hazelnuts add a lovely crunch and another layer of roasted flavor.
After the intensity of the raw beef and those magnificent cecinas, this humble vegetable feels wonderfully refreshing.
A reminder that José’s respect for exceptional ingredients extends well beyond his beloved oxen.
Culata de Buey en Escabeche Cítrico | Ox Rump in Citrus Escabeche
Another fascinating expression of José Gordón’s philosophy, transforming a flavorful cut of mature ox into something delicate and unexpectedly refreshing.
The culata, a cut from the rump, is presented in tender slices, generously dressed with a glossy citrus escabeche.
Unlike the traditional Spanish escabeche, often dominated by vinegar, oil and spices, the citrus brings a brighter, fresher character, balancing the deep richness of the beef with lively acidity.
After the extraordinary raw beef and long-cured cecinas, this is yet another way to discover the remarkable versatility of mature ox.
A beautiful reminder that José’s cooking is about far more than the grill.
Tortelloni Relleno de Bechamel de Cecina | Cecina Tortelloni with Butter, Honey and Crispy Cecina
One of the most extraordinary bites of the entire experience. Absolutely mind-blowing.
A delicate tortelloni filled with silky béchamel enriched with José Gordón’s legendary cecina, dressed in a luscious butter and honey sauce and finished with little shards of crispy cured ox.
The combination is almost absurdly delicious. The deep, concentrated umami of the cecina, the luxurious creaminess of the filling, the gentle sweetness of honey and the salty crunch of the crispy meat.
Everything comes together in one magnificent bite.
I've eaten countless extraordinary pasta dishes around the world, but this little creation is something I won't forget anytime soon.
Ancas de Rana con Huevo y Unto | Frog Legs with Egg and Cured Pork Fat
A wonderfully unexpected turn in our journey through La Cúpula.
Delicate frog legs, their tender white flesh nestled in a rich, golden sauce made with egg and unto, the traditional cured pork fat of northwestern Spain.
Frog legs have a delicate flavor and wonderfully soft texture, somewhere between the tenderness of chicken and the sweetness of freshwater fish.
The unto brings a deep, savory richness, while the egg gives the sauce its luxurious, velvety character.
A fascinating combination of rustic tradition and refined cooking, and another reminder that José Gordón's culinary world extends far beyond his extraordinary oxen.
Tomate de Nuestra Huerta | Garden Tomato, Tomato Snow and Roasted Tomato Gazpacho
A wonderful celebration of the humble tomato, grown in José Gordón’s own garden and presented in several different expressions.
Fresh tomato provides the natural sweetness and acidity, while a delicate snow of tomato brings a refreshing, almost weightless sensation. A light foam made from the tomato’s own water surrounds everything, alongside a deeply flavored gazpacho of roasted tomatoes.
Sweetness, acidity, freshness and the gentle depth of roasting, all coming from a single ingredient.
After so much extraordinary mature ox, this is exactly the kind of dish the palate needs. A beautiful reminder that José’s garden deserves just as much attention as his magnificent animals.
José Gordón | The Master at Work
One of the most memorable moments of our extraordinary journey through La Cúpula. José Gordón himself, standing at the carving table, carefully slicing the magnificent beef that has become his life's passion.
Watching José work is a privilege. Every movement is deliberate, every cut made with the understanding of someone who has spent decades studying these extraordinary animals.
For me, what makes El Capricho truly special isn't simply the quality of its beef. It's the man behind it, his knowledge, his generosity and his absolute devotion to his craft.
And having José personally carve and serve us his magnificent meat makes this experience even more unforgettable.
Lomo Alto de Minhota | Nine-Year-Old Minhota Ox, Aged 130 Days
And then comes one of the great moments of the entire experience.
Lomo alto from a magnificent nine-year-old Minhota ox, matured for 130 days before being cooked over the fire and carefully carved by José Gordón himself.
The meat is extraordinary, with a deeply caramelized crust, a beautifully pink interior and the remarkable complexity that comes from a mature animal and patient aging.
The richness of the fat, the depth of the beef and the precision of the cooking come together in something truly unforgettable.
For me, this is the very essence of El Capricho. An exceptional animal, decades of knowledge, the mastery of fire and the pleasure of sharing it with the man who has devoted his life to understanding it.
Desserts
Cúpula de Unto y Nata con Crujiente de Avellanas, Crema de Cereza y Helado de Vainilla | Cream and Cured Pork Fat Dome with Hazelnuts, Cherry and Vanilla Ice Cream
A wonderfully unexpected dessert to conclude our extraordinary journey through José Gordón’s world.
A delicate dome combining cream and unto, the traditional cured pork fat of northwestern Spain, coated in crunchy hazelnuts and accompanied by cherry cream and a beautiful quenelle of vanilla ice cream.
The unto brings an intriguing savory dimension to the sweetness, while the hazelnuts add texture and the cherry provides a welcome touch of acidity.
Rich, creamy, crunchy and refreshing, all on one plate.
Even at dessert, José refuses to abandon the traditions and ingredients that define his cooking. A fittingly original ending to an unforgettable meal.
What we drank
La Contesse Albariño 2019 | Pazo Barrantes, Rías Baixas
An extraordinarily rare Albariño from the historic Pazo Barrantes estate in Galicia.
Only 400 bottles were produced in 2019, and ours was individually numbered 165.
Created as a gran vino de guarda, it demonstrates Albariño's remarkable capacity for depth, complexity and graceful aging.
Thierry Fournier Réserve | Champagne, France
A lovely Champagne from the family-run Thierry Fournier estate in Festigny, in the Vallée de la Marne.
Known for its Pinot Meunier, the region produces beautifully expressive wines combining orchard fruit, citrus freshness and delicate brioche notes.
Elegant bubbles and lively acidity make it a wonderful companion to José Gordón's more delicate creations.
El Chano 2020 | Bodegas Gordón, Jiménez de Jamuz, León
A particularly meaningful wine from José Gordón's own family project, continuing a winemaking tradition begun by his grandfather Segundo.
Made from Mencía and other local varieties, with twelve months in French oak.
A beautiful connection between the old vineyards of the Jamuz Valley and the extraordinary food of El Capricho.
Obispo Gascón Palo Cortado 15 Años | Bodegas Barbadillo, Jerez
A beautiful 15-year-old Palo Cortado from historic Bodegas Barbadillo, founded in 1821.
Combining the aromatic elegance of Amontillado with the richness and structure of Oloroso, it offers toasted almonds, dried fruit, warm spices and a long, dry, complex finish.
A wonderful expression of Jerez's extraordinary aging tradition.
Las Lamas 2022 | Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo
An exceptional single-vineyard wine from Ricardo Pérez Palacios and Álvaro Palacios, grown on the steep slopes of Corullón in Bierzo.
Predominantly Mencía, with traditional local varieties, it combines fragrant red fruit, floral elegance, mineral tension and remarkable finesse.
A beautiful expression of Bierzo's extraordinary old vineyards.
Malleolus de Sanchomartín 2021 | Bodegas Emilio Moro, Ribera del Duero
An exceptional single-vineyard Tempranillo from Bodegas Emilio Moro, sourced from the historic Sanchomartín vineyard in Pesquera de Duero.
Powerful yet elegant, with concentrated black fruit, fine tannins, mineral depth and beautifully integrated oak.
A magnificent Ribera del Duero to accompany José Gordón's extraordinary mature ox.
San Vicente 1996 | Señorío de San Vicente, Rioja Alta
A remarkable 30-year-old Rioja from the Eguren family, made from Tempranillo Peludo grown in San Vicente de la Sonsierra.
A beautifully mature wine, with the potential for delicate dried fruit, tobacco, leather and earthy complexity.
An exceptional bottle to accompany José Gordón's magnificent aged ox.