Arai

Tilefish, Wakame & Myoga with Tilefish Liver Ponzu Silken tilefish sashimi meets the cool snap of wakame and fragrant threads of myoga. Alongside, its liver is folded into ponzu, creating a sauce both rich and sharply alive. Dip the delicate fish into it and everything changes—ocean sweetness, citrus, creaminess and gentle bitterness converging in a single bite.

Ikura Season Has Arrived Autumn announces itself in brilliant orange. Fresh ikura, now at the height of its season, arrives with remarkable delicacy: glossy pearls that burst gently rather than resist, releasing clean salinity and deep salmon richness. Served almost entirely alone, it needs nothing else. Sometimes seasonality is best expressed by simply knowing when not to interfere.

Ankimo with Narazuke Arai pairs rich, creamy ankimo with finely chopped narazuke—baby watermelon pickled in sake lees. The combination is extraordinary: the monkfish liver brings deep, almost buttery richness, while the pickle cuts through with sweetness, salinity, acidity and gentle fermentation. Wrapped in crisp nori, each bite moves beautifully between richness, crunch and brightness.

Katsuo That Did Not Lose Its Way Unlike last night’s wandering bonito, this katsuo knew exactly where it belonged. Lightly seared outside, gloriously ruby within, it delivers that unmistakable combination of smoke, iron, clean ocean flavor and autumn richness. No identity crisis here—just magnificent katsuo, confident in what it is and absolutely brilliant in Arai’s hands.

Tako — Not Another Taco Slow-cooked octopus, glossy and deeply seasoned, with a remarkable contrast between tenderness and gentle resistance. The flesh is almost creamy at its center, while the exterior carries concentrated sweetness and savory depth. Served simply with wasabi, it needs little else. Tako, definitely—not the kind of taco that comes in a tortilla. 😄

Matsutake Katsu A playful treatment of autumn’s most precious mushroom. Thick matsutake is enclosed in the lightest golden crust, protecting its moisture and extraordinary forest perfume. Bite through the delicate crunch and the mushroom remains juicy, meaty and intensely aromatic. A squeeze of sudachi and a touch of salt are all it needs.

Chutoro from Miyagi Arai is famous for two obsessions: sourcing extraordinary maguro from Yamayuki, and his particular love for chutoro. This piece from Miyagi explains both. The balance is exquisite—deep tuna flavor wrapped in fat that melts rather than overwhelms. Rich but never excessive, it captures that magical point between lean akami and luxurious otoro.

Kohada — The Soul of Edomae Sushi Kohada, gizzard shad, is one of the defining fish of traditional Edomae sushi. Rather than relying on luxury, it reveals the chef: salting, vinegar curing, timing and knife work must be precisely judged. Its silver skin, gentle acidity and concentrated umami make kohada a quiet benchmark of a sushi master’s craft.

Sumi-Ika — Cuttlefish Almost translucent and beautifully pristine, sumi-ika is about texture as much as flavor. Arai’s precise knife work transforms the naturally firm cuttlefish into something tender, creamy and gently sweet. Against warm, vinegared shari, its cool elasticity slowly gives way—a deceptively simple piece that reveals its complexity only as you chew.

Sawara — Spanish Mackerel Sawara has an understated elegance: pale, tender flesh with a gentle sweetness and fine, delicate fat. Its flavor is quieter than saba or aji, but beautifully persistent, becoming richer as you chew. Against warm shari, the texture seems almost to dissolve—a graceful piece defined by subtlety, balance and remarkable softness.

Kuruma Ebi — Japanese Tiger Prawn Kuruma ebi takes its name from kuruma, meaning “wheel.” When the prawn curls, the distinctive striped pattern across its shell resembles the spokes of a traditional Japanese wheel. Served warm over shari, its flesh is firm yet yielding, intensely sweet and full of umami—one of the great classics of Edomae sushi.

Awabi Nigiri — Abalone Awabi as nigiri is all about texture. Carefully cooked until tender, then precisely scored, the abalone retains a gentle resistance before yielding to a deep, lingering sweetness and oceanic umami. The warm shari softens its firmness further. Restrained, elegant and quietly luxurious—a piece that becomes more expressive with every deliberate chew.

Akami — Lean Tuna Akami is the purest expression of maguro: deep crimson, lean and intensely flavorful. Without the marbling of toro, the character of the tuna stands completely exposed—clean ocean minerality, gentle sweetness and profound umami. At Arai, with exceptional Miyagi tuna sourced through Yamayuki, simplicity becomes the ultimate luxury.

Otoro — Fatty Tuna Belly Otoro is maguro at its most decadent, cut from the richly marbled belly where fat and flesh become almost inseparable. At Arai, it never feels excessive: the tuna melts against the warm shari, releasing extraordinary sweetness and deep umami. Luxurious, yes—but also balanced, precise and astonishingly clean on the finish.

Aka Uni — Red Sea Urchin Aka uni is prized for its depth: richer, sweeter and more intensely oceanic than lighter varieties. Here, generous lobes rest directly on warm shari, their delicate structure barely holding together. The uni dissolves almost instantly, coating the rice with creamy sweetness, salinity and lingering umami—luxurious, but still unmistakably of the sea.

Anago — Sea Eel Anago is one of the comforting finales of an Edomae progression. Gently cooked until impossibly tender, then brushed with a glossy, sweet-savory tsume sauce, the eel almost collapses against the rice. Smoky edges bring contrast to its delicate flesh—a warm, deeply satisfying transition toward the end of the meal

Kokuryu (黒龍)

Kokuryu from Fukui is elegance without noise: polished, restrained and beautifully composed. Its delicate aromatics and clean rice character give way to subtle umami, fine acidity and a graceful finish. This is sake designed for the table rather than the spotlight—quietly supporting Arai’s seafood while never overwhelming the purity of each ingredient.

Hidakami Chokarakuchi Junmai (日高見 超辛口純米酒)

From Miyagi, Hidakami’s “super dry” Junmai feels purpose-built for sushi. Crisp, lean and sharply focused, it carries clean rice flavor and restrained umami before disappearing into a beautifully dry finish. It cuts through richer fish, refreshes the palate, and leaves you immediately ready for Arai’s next piece.

Hiroki Tokubetsu Junmai (飛露喜 特別純米)

Hiroki from Fukushima balances generosity with remarkable restraint. Gentle fruit and rice sweetness open into savory umami, freshness and a beautifully clean finish. There is richness without weight and complexity without noise—the kind of sake that remains interesting in the glass while understanding that, beside sushi, the fish should always lead.

Kikuyoi Tokubetsu Junmai (喜久醉 特別純米)

From Aoshima Shuzo in Shizuoka, Kikuyoi is wonderfully understated. Rather than chasing perfume or sweetness, it offers pure rice flavor, gentle umami and a smooth, dry finish. This is sake made for food: quiet, precise and beautifully composed, supporting Arai’s sushi without ever trying to steal attention from what is on the counter.

Atago no Matsu Senretsu Karakuchi Junmai (あたごのまつ 鮮烈辛口純米)

From Miyagi, Atago no Matsu lives up to its name: vivid, crisp and dry. Restrained aromatics lead into clean rice flavor, bright acidity and a brisk finish. There is enough umami to embrace the fish, but nothing lingers unnecessarily. It resets the palate beautifully and keeps the rhythm of the sushi moving.

Hakurakusei Junmai Ginjo (伯楽星 純米吟醸)

Also from Miyagi, Hakurakusei is built around an idea I love: sake as a companion to food rather than the center of attention. Delicate fruit, crisp acidity and subtle rice sweetness finish remarkably clean. With sushi, that restraint becomes its strength—refreshing the palate while quietly preparing it for whatever Arai places down next.

Juyondai Nakadori Jokanzume (十四代 中取り上諸白)

Juyondai is one of Japan’s most coveted sake names, and this bottle shows why. The nakadori refers to the prized middle portion of the pressing, selected for exceptional balance and purity. Silky and expressive, with elegant fruit, gentle sweetness and remarkable clarity—a luxurious sake with enough precision to sit beautifully beside Arai’s sushi.