Sugita
Sun, Oct 4, 2026
Sugita — The Zen Master
Sugita-san has always had a very special place in my heart. Watching him work is almost meditative; every movement is calm, precise and completely natural. I often think of the Japanese tea ceremony when I sit at his counter. Nothing is rushed, nothing is wasted, and yet there is so much warmth behind the discipline.
For me, Sugita is not only one of Japan’s greatest sushi masters. He is a true shokunin, and every visit feels deeply personal.
What we ate
Awabi
Tender abalone, prepared simply to preserve its natural sweetness and distinctive, gently resilient texture. A quiet beginning that immediately shows Sugita-san’s restraint and precision.
Matsukawa Karei & Engawa
Delicate matsukawa karei alongside its richer engawa, showing two very different textures and expressions from the same fish.
Kawahagi with Liver Sauce
Kawahagi served with its creamy liver sauce — clean, delicate flesh against the deep, almost decadent richness of the liver.
Chilled Awabi Chawanmushi
A chilled chawanmushi with awabi — silky, delicate and deeply savory, with the abalone bringing its distinctive sweetness and texture.
Sumi-Ika no Geso
Lightly grilled cuttlefish tentacles, beautifully tender with a gentle char that brings out their natural sweetness and deepens the umami.
Ankimo & Awabi no Kimo with Aramasa
Sugita-san’s legendary ankimo alongside awabi liver, paired with Aramasa sake. Extraordinary richness and umami, balanced by the sake’s freshness and acidity — a dish many consider the finest expression of ankimo in the world.
Tachiuo — Beltfish
Gently grilled beltfish, its delicate flesh beautifully moist beneath the shimmering silver skin. Served simply with sudachi and grated daikon, letting the fish’s sweetness remain at the center.
Sugita’s Kohada
One of Sugita-san’s signatures — beautifully cured kohada, where acidity, salt, temperature and the seasoned rice come together in remarkable balance. A deceptively simple piece that reveals the hand of a master.
Sumi-Ika
Beautifully translucent sumi-ika, with a gentle sweetness and that distinctive tender, almost creamy texture. Another piece where Sugita-san’s precision makes simplicity feel extraordinary.
Madai — Sea Bream
Elegant madai with clean sweetness and a beautifully firm texture. The careful knife work and subtle treatment of the skin add another layer without overwhelming the purity of the fish.
Shima Aji — Striped Jack
Rich and silky shima aji, with beautiful natural fat balanced by a clean, elegant finish. A wonderful contrast of supple flesh, silver skin and warm shari.
Smoked Katsuo — Bonito
Lightly smoked katsuo, fragrant and deeply savory, with the smoke amplifying the fish’s natural richness without hiding its freshness. A beautifully expressive piece.
Kasugodai — Young Sea Bream
Delicate kasugodai with its beautiful silvery skin, gently cured to concentrate its sweetness and umami. Soft, elegant and perfectly integrated with Sugita-san’s shari.
Borderline Chutoro
Right on the beautiful border between akami and chutoro — enough fat for richness and melt, while still retaining the deeper flavor and character of lean tuna.
Otoro — Fatty Tuna
Luxuriously marbled otoro, impossibly soft and rich, melting into the warm shari. Pure indulgence, but in Sugita-san’s hands, still beautifully balanced.
Aji — Horse Mackerel
Silky, rich aji with its characteristic clean sweetness and gentle oiliness. Beautifully balanced against the warm shari — classic Edomae sushi at its best.
Ikura — Salmon Roe
Glowing ikura wrapped in crisp nori — each pearl bursting with salinity, sweetness and umami. Simple, generous and deeply satisfying.
Kuruma Ebi — Japanese Tiger Prawn
Sweet, succulent kuruma ebi with a firm yet tender bite. Served at just the right temperature, bringing out its natural sweetness and depth.
Sugita’s Uni — A Feat of Sushi Engineering
An extraordinary mound of uni balanced directly on the shari, with no nori to hold it together. Rich, creamy and impossibly delicate — a little feat of sushi engineering, and pure Sugita-san.
Anago — Sea Eel
Feather-soft anago, gently cooked until almost weightless, then brushed with sweet-savory tsume. Warm, delicate and melting — a beautiful final piece of nigiri.
Shio Anago — Sea Eel with Salt
The purest expression of anago — feather-soft and warm, finished simply with salt instead of sweet tsume. Delicate, savory and almost impossibly light.
Tamago
Sugita-san’s beautifully precise tamago — delicate, airy and gently sweet, with an almost cake-like texture. A quiet and elegant ending to the omakase.
What we drank
Mimurosugi — Junmai Daiginjo
Refined and polished, with an elegant aromatic profile and clean finish. A graceful opening sake that works beautifully with the more delicate early courses.
Nichi Nichi
Pure, fresh and beautifully restrained, with gentle acidity and remarkable transparency. A sake that feels completely at home beside Sugita-san’s precise, understated style.
Hakurakusei — Junmai Ginjo
Clean, crisp and famously food-friendly, with enough acidity and structure to refresh the palate without competing with the sushi.
Jikon
Silky and expressive, balancing fruit, umami and freshness. Rich enough to accompany the deeper flavors of the meal while remaining exceptionally elegant.
Hirotogawa — Tokubetsu Junmai
Soft, rounded and quietly savory, with gentle sweetness and a beautifully composed finish. A comforting, understated sake that lets the food remain the star.